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About Rajasthan
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A
magical sojourn reverberating with age old culture and traditions, the state
enfolds in its lap a diverse kaleidoscope of breathtakingly beautiful and fascinating
art-de-facts. The range is unparalleled even while it is sophisticated in its
simplicity.
It has something for almost every kind of traveler, revealing a vast range
of arts and crafts, which is a treat for the visuals and are ready to be picked.
The Bazaars spill with products and there is a magnificent glow of colours
all over.
Intricate work carved on handicrafts or the wonders of gems and stones, it
has it all and even more like the colours dancing on the textiles and fabrics
with silver or gold threads settings and complimented with the variety of
Silk-threads, Beads, Gota, Zari, Zardosi, Banarasi, etc. designed by the age
old families of skilled artisans.
The amazing use of clay in the form of sculpture and decorative arts, the
paintings from different schools like Miniature, Mughal and the different
Rajasthani shailis (school of art) and more are piled up, revealing the medieval
splashes and recording historic and dramatic events. Almost capturing the
senses!
The age old art of dyes and colours hold the centre of attraction.
Every part of the state, every town, every village is associated with the
rich heritage of craftsmanship so particular to Rajasthan. Entire villages
practice crafts - sometimes a vast spectrum, on other occasions just a single
skill that can range from dhurrie weaving to terracotta products.
These traditions once helped to form the different layers of a self-supporting
society in villages and towns, and it is this that has ensured their survival.
Most crafts are still practiced because they find use in local society - the
painters, for example, still do frescos on temple walls, and the village cobbler
makes thick-soled shoes for the farmers, reserving the more delicate versions
for visitors.
Today, Rajasthan's markets spill with an exciting array of goods: paintings,
jewellery, fabrics and textiles, soft-as-gossamer quilts, clay pottery and
blue pottery, dhurries and carpets, wood, metal and stone sculpture, leatherware
and terracotta...
Little bells dance in the breeze, puppets dangle from strings, embroidered footwear
brightens up stores, lights glow in huge glass candelabra and gemstones spill
across pavements: in Rajasthan's treasure-trove, you could spend days simply
exploring the world of the artisan.
Gems & Jewellery of Rajasthan

In
Rajasthan, men and women traditionally wore necklaces, armlets, anklets, earings
and rings. With the advent of the Mughal Empire, Rajasthan became a major centre
for production of the finest kind of jewellery. It was a true blend of the Mughal
with the Rajasthani craftsmanship.
The Mughals brought sophisticated design and technical know-how of the Persian
with them. The common link was the inherently decorative nature of the Muslim
and Hindu art. The synthesis of the two cultures resulted in a period of grandeur
and brilliance that dazzled the eyes of foreigners and has passed into legend.
The jewellers of Rajasthan specilised in the setting of precious stones into
gold and the enameling of gold. Jaipur and to some extent Alwar emerged as
the enameling centers par excellence in the eighteenth and nineteenth century.
Enameling was introduced by Maharaja Man Singh who had cordial relations with
Akbar.
The enameled gold staff of the Maharaja is unsurpassed even today for its
brilliant colours. For enameling the piece to be worked on is fixed on a stick
of lac and delicate designs if flowers, birds and fishes are etched on it.
A wall is made to hold the colours while engravings are made in the grooves
to heighten the interplay of the transparent shades, thus enhancing the beauty
of the jewel. The surface is fully burnished by agate; then the enamel colours
are filled in painstakingly as in a miniature painting.
The article is then left in the oven on a mica plate to keep it off the fire.
Colours are applied in order of their hardness those requiring more later
when set it is rubbed gently with the file and cleaned with lemon or tamarind.
The craftsmen in Jaipur are believed to have originally come from Lahore.
In Jaipur the traditional Mughal colours of red, green and white are most
commonly used in enameling.
A quintessentially Indian technique and a speciality of Rajasthan is the
setting of stones by means of Kundan the jewellery in which stones are set
is rarely solid gold, it has a core of lac, a natural resin. The pieces which
make up the finished object are first shaped by specialised craftsmen (and
soldered together if the shape is complicated) and left in separate hollow
halves. Holes are cut for the stones, any engraving or chasing is carried
out and the pieces are enameled.
When the stones are to be set lac is inserted in the back and is then holes.
Highly refined gold, the Kundan, is then used to cover the lac and the stone
is pushed into the Kundan. More Kundan is applied around the edges to strengthen
the setting and give it a neat appearance. This was the only form of setting
for stones in gold until claw settings were introduced under the influence under
the influence of western jewellery in the nineteenth century.
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